Damaraland, Namibia: where ‘each day lasts 100 hours’

I walked out into the desert just as the sun was beginning to show above the mountains. I’d been advised not to step out of my bungalow in north-west Namibia while it was dark: there were lion tracks only a few steps away. But now a spotted eagle owl was flapping out of the bushes and beating its broad white wings across the dry emptiness in front of me, and the world was reborn and golden. A guide at the lodge, Johan, had offered to take me on a walk…